Jacquard Weaving and Designing by T. F. Bell

Author:T. F. Bell
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Publisher: Longmans, Green
Published: 1895-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

the yarn and the number of threads in the mail; 10 to 12 to 1 lb. are used in power [ooms for hnen damask with two threads in the mail, having about eighty to one hundred threads of warp per inch. For hand looms they are usually made of lead, thicker and shoi'ter than the wire lingoes, and called ' leads'; 11 to 15 per lb. suits for three- or four-thread harnesses. Light cotton work, such as muslin curtains, only requires lingoes of about sixty or seventy to 1 lb. for hand looms, but from twenty-five to thirty per Ih. are used in power looms for two-thread harnesses.

The principle of working the pressure harness is best explained by

the diaper mounting shown in Fig. 2, where a back set of heddles takes the place of the harness, and a set of ground leaves of long-eyed heddles stands in front of the back ones. After the yam is drawn into the harness or back mounting in the usual way, it must be drawn into the front or presser heddles, using, generally, a straight draught for a satin ground. If Figs. 2 and 111 are examined, it will bo seen that when the shed is opened by the harness or back mounting, the heddles in front sink part of the raised warp and raise part of the sunk warp. The mounting raises all the warp of the figuring portion on each card or line of the design paper, and leaves down all the ground warp, so that it is necessary to have the heddles in front to bind the warp and weft, or form the texture of the cloth. For an 8-leaf satin eight shafts are required ; one of these must be raised and another sunk for each shot, so as to raise the binding threads of the sunk warp and sink those of the raised warp, the harness forming the outline of the pattern, or raising the warp of it in a mass. The other six leaves of heddles stand in a middle position, and the long eyes allow the warp drawn by the harness to rise. When the machine is drawn it is held up till as many shots as are to be given to the card are thrown in, but the shed formed by the heddles must be changed for each shot. In working bars up the cloth one card would be sufficient, and when the machine is drawn it would be held so, and the cloth wrought with the heddles ; of course, no machine would be required in this case, one leaf of heddles with the stripes of warp drawn into it would be sufficient for the back moimting. For dices two leaves of heddles would be sufficient for the back mounting, the warp of one dice to be drawn on one leaf, and that of the other on the other leaf; then one leaf would be raised and held up till one dice was wrought, when it would be lowered, and the other one raised and held up for the other dice.

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